Chateau Spencer La Pujade
Imagine for a moment, ash-laden volcanic eruptions like Mount St. Helen occurring millions of years ago somewhere near Sicily. The immense ash clouds are then blown across the Mediterranean by a prehistoric Mistral and finally settle back to earth at random locations near the foothills of the Pyrenees in the region we now know as Corbieres. By fortunate consequence Chateau Spencer la Pujade now rests at one of these sheltered hollows and the aeolian sands born of that ancient ash along with the winds which deposited them there still have a profound effect on its extraordinary wines.
Corbieres has always been a wonderful source of value for those who love the savory styled wines of the Mediterranean. Sadly, around 90% of the region still operates under the post-war cooperative system or through large scale producers. Enter Christopher Spencer, a wine lover with roots in Burgundy, who discovered a historic 30 ha domaine in Ferrals-les-Corbieres which had not been used for decades. With the help of the talented Bordelaise vigneron, Sebastien Bonneaud, they have completed a thorough restoration of the vineyards and cellar. The old vineyards are now being farmed using organic and biodynamic methods. The cellar has also undergone a complete restoration.
Ferrals-les-Corbieres is one of the windiest departments in all of France. While the steadily howling winds are known to drive some humans literally insane, their benefit to the Carignan, Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache, Rousanne and Vermentino planted here is often overlooked. It’s a given that the constant wind is a great preventative against molds and their harmful effects on the vines. But knowing that vines take in Carbon Dioxide in order to photosynthesize, consider the healthful effect an abundance of fresh CO2 offers while circulating through a windy vineyard.
Sand might just be considered the magic ingredient in some of the great wines of Barolo and Austria. It’s purity and porosity have the ability to lend an ethereal polish to wines from its soils. That these sandy pockets exist at all in the Corbieres is the rare exception. The combination of these exceptional soil and climatic conditions farmed organically on a very small scale, much like what was done a century ago, are what makes the wines from Ch. Pujade truly remarkable.
2018 La P’tit Envie. 70% Vermentino, 15% Rousanne15% Marsanne. Vinified in cement vats. Brilliant pale yellow color. Lemon, almonds, straw and white flowers on the nose. Citrus and toasted nut flavors followed by Rousanne-influenced banana tones on the back palate. Very fresh and well-built for its price. This is a serious wine that doesn’t take itself too seriously.
2017 Le P’tit Spencer. 50% Carignan, 25% Mourvedre, 25% Syrah. Opaque, dark ruby color. Juicy blackberry nose with tones of smoke and mineral/graphite. Vibrant flavors of spiced berries, plum, wild herbs and smoke. Clean and smooth with a lovely racy finish.
2015 Spencer La Pujade Old Vine Carignan. IGP Aude Hauterive from 70-100 year old vines. Very opaque ruby color with brick hues. Meaty ethereal nose with berry jam, anise, woodspice and toast tones. Well-developed flavors of meat and blackberry preserves with garrigue and lifted mineral notes. Very classic and fine-textured.